Yuzu pannacotta 2026.

I ordered a bottle of yuzu juice from Amazon. Eyewatering 30 euro for a 200ml bottle, but it brought so many great memories. And when I looked up the recipe here and found we were making it in Dinings 15 (!!!!!) years ago, I was aghast. This evening we had some Asian food, the side of broccoli dressed with yuzu ponzu ( soooo good), but then I had to make the pannacotta. With an Italian cream. There doesn’t seem to be much choice in Italian shops in terms of cream, there is panna, no double or single one like in the UK, so I hope the recipe works, I skipped the milk altogether. Slightly reduced the sugar too, I can quite believe that 15 years ago 120g of sugar didn’t even make me wink, now it does, so with 350 ml of cream, about 90g of sugar, some of it vanilla sugar, about 60ml of yuzu juice, 2,5 gelatine leaves. I should maybe wait for tomorrow to see how they turned out, before I blog them, but hey, they only just went to the fridge.

So, to be continued.

…And on Friday evening; tastes excellent, not sickly sweet, but a bit too set, I guess the addition of citrus juice messes up the gelatine a bit.

Ossobuco. Debut.

We went to Siena last weekend with the Swedes. On Saturday evening we dined in Taverna di San Giuseppe, a place with great reviews, a queue outside of the door and a sign saying- we are full, piss off, don’t bother. Expectations were very high, but we were not blown away. Daniel and I went for ossobuco, which left us both quite disappointed. I never cooked it before, but when eating it I thought- I can do it better. For sure. And yesterday in Esselunga I came across some veal ossobuco, grabbed them off the shelf immediately and cooked them today, having first consulted Luca Pappagallo and Max Mariola.

I seasoned them first with salt and pepper, then dusted them in flour, before browning them off on olive oil and butter. Some soffritto was ready and chopped, added to the meat, then a glass of white wine, after a few minutes some beef stock, lid on and it cooked on medium heat for nearly 2 hours, much longer than both chefs suggested. I wanted mine falling off that bone, in the Taverna I had wanted my veal softer.

When I was happy with the cooking, the potato puree was ready, I made a little finishing touch, as suggested on youtube, finely chopped rosemary, parsley and lemon rind, all sprinkled on the meat before serving.

Served with mash, broccoli and some decent red, the family said they liked it, I rather did too, but I’m thinking I’d give it a sauce, a ballsy, big sauce, maybe roasted tomato/pepper thing, maybe even some olives, not sure how authentic it would have become…

Not said the last word on ossobuco yet.

It tasted and looked much better than on the photo. :-/

Spaghetti alla Nerano.

Inspired by Stanley Tucci’s delightful book “Taste” that I have finished reading last night. Swifly moved on to his “What I ate in one year”, which so far doesn’t contain any recipes, but is still a great read.

I’ve made the spaghetti for lunch today. Never had it before, so can’t compare it to anything, but I love the idea of its simplicity and I love courgettes, so I had a go. Without provolone, which I had none of, but will get a piece when I come across it next time, for science and research, of course.

I started by thinly slicing 4 small courgettes, Stanley reckons the smaller the better, on a mandoline, deep fried them in olive oil in batches, while the spaghetti was cooking for about half of the recommended time on the packet. One of the chefs on youtube suggested that if one had no provolone, one could just chuck a knob of butter onto the olive oil and don’t be shy on the parmiggiano, I did both. A chopped clove of garlic, a few chopped basil leaves onto the butter/olive oil mixture, then most of the deep fried courgettes, before the pasta goes in, straight from the water. I kept adding more and more of the pasta water to finish cooking the spaghetti, then a bit of salt, but not too much, as I salted the courgettes once I fried them. Parmiggiano in, quite a lot, black pepper. When on the plate, I added the remaining fried courgettes.

From what I understand the sauce could have been more creamy, if one had the provolone, but I was very tempted to add a sprinkling of chili flakes in there, I still might next time.

It was a nice plate of pasta, not a spectacular one, but will be made again.

Banana and chocolate chip loaf.

Molly’s recipe, which she shared with me last Sunday. I took a photo of her recipe card, handwritten, with American measures like cups etc. As I sat down yesterday to decipher it with the help of Google, Florek came along and asked- whatcha doin? Looked across my arm, took the laptop out of my hands and swifty employed Chat GPT to do the job. Gave it the photos of Molly’s recipe cards. It swiftly translated all the cups and “8 tbsps of butter” into grams for me, but then also simplified the baking method, the way I like it; instead of a 2 long sentence brag “combine all purpose flour, baking soda, cocoa ” etc before adding to the creamed butter and sugar combo, it served me with quick and efficient step by step instructions, which I much prefer. I really was impressed by what AI can do these days, but as Florek says, I ain’t seen nothing yet.

And so, on a wet and rainy Tuesday morning I decided to make the loaf. I used 250g of over ripe mashed bananas, 120 g of sour cream. 120g of plain flour, 1 tsp of baking soda, a pinch of salt, 2 tbsps of cocoa. 100g of sugar, mixed brown and white, which I have creamed with 115 g of soft butter. Once nice and flully, I added the mashed bananas and cream, 1 whole egg, then all the dry ingredients, taking care not to overmix everything. Finally aabout 120 g of good quality chocolate chips and some chopped pecans( which were not in the recipe). All this went into a lined loaf tin and into the oven at 180 degrees for about 45 minutes, until the skewer came out clean.

While it baked, the house smelled fantastic.

The loaf is very moist, not too sweet, chocolatey and wonderful. It will not be a snack free afternoon, unfortunately.

Ps. AI helped to enhance both photos, taken with my phone. Yikes!

Parigi, for the first time in nearly 6 years!

I felt like popping in to Paris and seeing Moka for quite a few months, but it took time, her dad died, our catch- up had to wait. But I got there in the end, last Friday.

We spent a very nice weekend together, we still have the connection, like did 25 years ago at college. Vino still tastes great together, the things we talk about changed a bit ( peri-menopause!….:-).

Moka patiently took me around Paris, we ate well, as always. Saturday morning I inhaled 2 wonderful croissants, nevermind my wasteline. I’m pleased to say that mine are not far from the French ones, if only I had that wonderful French salted butter.

We stopped for coffee and some more pastry, as Moka said I had to try a cinnamon bun full of butter ( surprise!), sprinkled with sea salt flakes, divine, we shared it and struggled to finish it, after the tiny breakfast we had.

For dinner Moka led the way to a Lebanese place, a first for me, as I don’t know much about middle eastern food, but I liked it a lot. Never had confit lamb before, this one was as soft as you like, gently, but confidently spiced. Hummus, different than mine, moreish, excellent with Malbec.

Then, for Sunday lunch we went to Vaudeville, a traditional French, popular spot, which I loved before I even tasted anything. Such nice ambience and always a pleasure to watch a well trained waiter at work. This place was full them. We shared some duck pate with green salad, then cozze for Moka, beef tartare for me, wonderful fries.

We then saw a waiter passing by with a stunning looking dessert, which I had only seen on Masterchef before, but I knew this was the place and time to try it, so we shared a floating island. Drizzled with salted caramel and sprinkled with well toasted almonds, what a treat that was.

Possibly the best thing I had during the whole weekend.

Orly airport had a lot more to offer than Pisa one, I wasn’t surprised to see a Laduree shop there, but I didn’t go in, not a single macaron this time, my sweet tooth and an obsession with them belong to the past. For the best I guess.

Most delicious weekend. I hope we’ll do it again soon.

La Cantinetta di Bolgheri.

For our second mid week trip in search of great food with the Svedesi, we invited Molly and Enrico along. Enrico crashed out last minute, but Molly came and having dropped off the kids at school at 8.30, we boarded tesla and headed to Bolgheri. For us it was the second time. Beautiful, warm day in excellent company.

Having had a coffee and a walk around town, having purchased some vino, we started paying attention to the menus displayed outside of the restaurants and ended up in La Cantinetta di Bolgheri.

An absoluetly superb service. The owner, a chunky lady with a good sense of humour looked after us really well, made sure Molly was taken care of with her dietary requirements, served us 2 bottles of great Bolgheri with lunch- it was the third choice of wine, as the other two, we were told were out of stock.

We started with a tagliere of meats and cheese and some bruschetta. Beautifully presented, delicious, especially the artichokes.

Daniel had a plate of pasta, Molly some eggs, then baked aubergine, I have fallen into a trap of tagliata di “wagyu”. I should have known better that at 25 euro it ain’t no wagyu, but I still did. The meat was chewy, had zero marbling, a bit of disappointment. Courtney and Daniel chose a beef cheek in a sensational wine reduction, of which I had tasted a bit and I wished I had chosen it. It wasn’t as soft and gelatinous as the cheeks I used to cook in England, but it was delicious and I’m thinking maybe a visit to macelleria will be in order soon.

Florek had gone for a beef tartare with truffles in a freeky charred bun, that was a very pretty plate.

Excellent meal with lovely people, Daniel did Sergio’s trick and paid the bill on the way to the loo. Grrr!!!

After the coffee we were so stuffed that in the evening we skipped dinner altogether (apart from Izzie) and had only some green tea. Oh, and towards the end the owner brought us a bottle of wine we ordered as a first choice, turned out there was one last bottle and it was given to us free of charge. Will be enjoyed next Saturday while we celebrate Izzie’s birthday.

La dolce vita a Capannori.

Last Sunday we were invited to Casa Linden for one of those great, Italian lunches,where, after 4-5 hours of eating and drinking one just wants to have a nap on a sofa somewhere, so it’s time to go home. Courtney and Daniel prepared a selection of delicious things to start with and then we all made our own pizzas, which were then baked in the oven on the terrace. The kids had a blast, fun and creative way to get them involved.

Molly made an appearance with her brand new short haircut, away went the wig, she looked radiant and healthy, but continues on a strict diet, so with Courtney they had a pumpkin soup with wonderful fresh eggs, of which we also got a few.

Later in the evening I started a new WhatsApp group for us, Boaratis and Svedesi, we had such a good time together. Next time we’ll repeat this here, Izzie’s birthday will be an excellent excuse to have them all around.

Very chocolatey cookies.

A very spontaneous batch of cookies made after lunch today, they are proving too popular, I’m glad I only made a small batch, as always when following a recipe from mojewypieki.com.

Over some hot water I melted 45g of butter, onto it went around 140g of chocolate, mostly 70%.

1 whole egg fluffed up with 80g of sugar, into it went the choc-butter combo, then 55g of plain flour, some baking powder, a pinch of salt, a generous handful of chocolate chips and chopped hazelnuts.

Formed by teaspoon and onto the baking paper, the cookies baked for 12 minutes at 170 degrees. Divine when still warm, brownie like texture inside, crunchy outside. They won’t make it past tomorrow, good, as Dott.Staal is awaiting us tomorrow afternoon.

In and around Modena.

Last week we were mostly child free, as The Child was enjoying some skiing up in Sestola, school trip. I had made some plans well ahead and thought it would be great to finally go and see Modena, a bit more than 2 hours drive. We invited The Swedes along and ended up having a great day out together. The Swedes are always a good bet when it comes to company; they eat, they drink, they’re great to talk to and are severely allergic to any sort of bullshit, one of the reasons we get along well.

So we drove to Modena, parked the car and walked up to Piazza Duomo, past Bar Pavarotti, took a few moments to enjoy the views and went to Mercato Albinelli, following the footsteps of Robert Maklowicz, it was lunch time afterall.

We had a delicious lunch of some smoked fish- never before had smoked tuna or smoked swordfish before, both were fantastic. After that fish based secondi, nicely watered down with some Lambrusco ( when in Emilia Romagna……).

Next stop was Azienda Agricola Moscattini, which I had booked a couple of weeks in advance. We wanted to see one of many places where parmigiano reggiano is being made. And we ended up having a private tour, just the 4 of us and lovely Alessia. We were shown the process of cheese making, cheese storing and then sat down to cheese tasting; we were given parmigiano of 12,24,36 and 50 months old, some cured meats, honey, local bread and a bottle of Lambrusco. We ended up bringing home a piece of 50 month old parmigiano and some honey, among other treats.

The plan is to make this sort of trips more frequent together, hopefully we can make this happen. 🙂

Hoisin chicken stir fry.

Marion’s. Made us all very happy this evening and also quick to make, which is a bonus after a longish wait for Izzie’s vaccination earlier this afternoon. We got home after 6pm, by 7 we were fed and onto the cookies- more of which later.

Thinly sliced chicken breasts were marinated in soy sauce, dark soy sauce ( today substituted by a bit of oyster sauce, but I have an order coming from Oishii Planet), Shaoxing wine, some bicarb of soda and some cornflour.

Basmati rice was steaming away, I prepared the veggies and then the stir fry sauce; a good splash of Hoisin, some soy, some Shao, brown sugar, rice vinegar and black pepper.

Onto a very hot wok went some oil, roughly chopped onions, quickly caramelised, then the chicken, which I left in peace for about 3 minutes to catch some colour. Some chopped garlic, peppers and a handful of edamame, which I found in Esselunga, miraculously. Finally the stir fry sauce, around the edges, a minute or two, spring onions and we were good to eat.

It was very much enjoyed, The Child had seconds. A keeper.

Courtney gave me some Swedish cookies at school, made by Daniel, I’m told they are called kolakakor. And I even obtained the recipe. Very nice indeed, sugar intake for today was quite, erm, significant.

On the joys of cooking and eating