The start of Torcigliano Diaries.

11 months after we have left Winchcombe to embark on our new life in bella Italia, here I am, by the same table, but this table now stands in a house we have bought, after months of waiting, dealing with stuff, another round of packing boxes, then another one of unpacking them. We’ve here. Siamo arrivati. 🙂

There is a Tuscan kitchen, smaller than the one in Winchcombe, but the door the patio opens lots of new possibilities! There is a driveway, on which grows the most frangrant and wonderful thyme, lots and lots of mint on the sides. There are olive trees all around. There are neighbours who grow their own lemons and lots of wonderful looking veggies and also other neighbours above us, who make their own wine. Speaking of wine I must mention yesterday’s visit to a vineria Enrico and Molly recommended to us. Back in the UK the idea of buying and drinking wine from the tap at 2 euro per litre would have amused me, but I quickly changed my mind here. Enrico brought over some locally grown vermentino a few months back, then Molly gave me a bottle with a local sangiovese blend. We drove to Lammari yesterday with a box full empty bottles and filled them all up for less than 29 euro.

And because the wine is great and the service from Igor, the owner, just as good, we will go back when we run out of wine.

One of the nicest things made so far in the new kitchen was tomato sauce made with fresh tomatoes, but spiked with fresh, chopped mint, as there is so much of it around. It was enjoyed with simple pasta for lunch, but also on a pizza.

And then, a few days ago I decided to have a go at making sourdough bread. Florek, true to his word, has treated me to a lovely, brand new oven, first one ever that I didn’t have to scrub before I put food in it.

I’m using Paul Hollywood’s “How to bake book”, which has an entire chapter on sourdough.

Right now my starter is comfortably bubbling away in the bowl, until tomorrow, when I will proceed to stage 2. By the end of the week we should be tasting some Torcigliano sourdough.

To be continued! 🙂

Back to Nonna Clara’s.

The Blackhams are in Italy for the whole of last week. They stay in a cute little place just off the beach in Viareggio, today they came to Lucca, before heading back home to London tomorrow. I booked us lunch in Trattoria Nonna Clara’s, thinking- they need to remember Lucca for fantastic food, so this is the place.

We had a long, 2,5 hour long lunch. We started off with stuffed courgette flowers and a plate of cured meats and cheeses. Proceeded to some lasagne, some stuffed pasta, Alyssa had a mountain of roasted lamb, Louise and I went for today’s special, ossobuco with puree al tartufo.

We all tasted that puree and it was the best thing I tasted in a while, absolutely sensational. Then 3 tiramisu arrived for us to share, followed by a freebie of a wonderful sorbetto al limone, but liquid, in a glass, refreshing and wonderful. And coffee.

An absolutely delicious meal in a lovely company.

Risotto con piselli.

How the blog has been neglected! 🙁

Busy times though, as we are preparing to move to Casa Banks in Torcigliano, there is barely time to sit down and enjoy a cup of tea, read a book or cook something really nice and write about it. Last weekend was another one when we dragged two Ikea bags to the car in the morning, filled with stuff so that there was less for the traslochi, then a few hours of work, painting, tidying up the garden, then, as a reward to ourselves, a nice meal at Grumpy’s , as zero energy was left to cook. Grumpy always gives us a discount now and makes sure we have noticed, how he gave us a discount! 🙂

This morning I was awake at 5 am flicking through internet and found this nice little recipe from GialloZafferano. A few hours later in Esselunga I was buying some fresh green peas and made it for us this evening, while thunderstorm was raging outside. Nice little dish, all the Bankses enjoyed it.

First I crisped up some guanciale, which even Dustin likes, but raw, then drained the meat and used the fat to fry up a shallot, half a courgette and a small bowl of peas. Then a bit of chicken stock and after a few minutes the whole thing was ready to puree. Made a risotto usual way, with chicken stock and Santa Cristina, kept on adding the green puree and then a good handful of fresh peas towards the end. Right before serving crispy guanciale went on top and it was ready to be enjoyed. With the remaining Santa Cristina, ovviamente! 🙂

Veal marsala.

Liz and Ian came over to spend a few days with us over Easter. Together we have eaten very well, drunk an ocean of wine, ate out a lot. There was lots of Pizza Alice, vongole at Grumpy’s, gelato at Gelatarium, there were sensational gnocchi with asparagus and blue sauce in Florence – I should have taken a photo, but I was too busy enjoying it, but on Monday evening Ian and I cooked a nice meal for everyone, and on Ian’s request it was veal marsala. The photo doesn’t do it justice!

The veal cutlets were seasoned with salt and pepper and very quickly pan fried, as very thin. Then they rested while we made a wonderful sauce, I can’t wait to be making it again, maybe with some chicken?

On some butter chopped shallot and lots of fresh cup mushrooms were panfried, then some garlic too. A good splash of marsala and some chicken stock. The recipe suggested we reduce it all by half, what we did instead, we thickened it with some cream and flour mixture, adjusted seasoning, some chopped parsley on top and the veal could go back in. We served it with roast potatoes/carrots, green beans, broccoli and some good wine. Everyone but Evelyn enjoyed it a lot, nothing was left- no veg, no meat, no sauce. Lots of marsala waiting for more cooking. 🙂

Fish & Chips.

There aren’t many things I miss from the UK. If I could walk in to Waitrose now, I’d get a handful of things; some salted French butter. Their scones. Some sourdough. Scallops. Wotsits. Lady Grey tea. Spicy Tailor curry kits. Mature cheddar. But I have been thinking for a while that I would happily destroy a portion of fish and chips. I have not had a good portion of chips in Italy so far, but that’s ok, they excel in other things. But fresh, lovely fish is available in abundance and this morning I brought from Esse some nice, small fillets of cod, consulted Marion and made us a calorific and tasty supper this evening.

Chips were rubbish. They were cooked in the oven, oven at Via di Poggio 34 is shite and I can’t wait to leave it behind in a few weeks time.

But the fish was delicious. I started with the batter, as all of the ingredients had to be cold, so flour, salt, baking powder and a touch of turmeric were coolong in the fridge while I prepared the fillets. Got rid of the bones, seasoned well with salt and pepper, dusted with corn flour. Then added some cold beer and soda water to the flour and stuff, aiming for the loose cake batter consistency, dipped my fish and quickly deep fried, until golden and crunchy. Once out onto the paper towel, a sprinkle of salt and we were good to go. Mayo with sriracha sauce was an excellent addition, as well as some sweet peas. Now- peppermint tea. 🙂

Melanzane gratinate.

For a long time I had no idea what to do with aubergines. Here in Italy they are available all year long, cheap and everywhere. I’ve tried a melanzane parmigiana the other day, it went down quite nicely, but this here was what youtube suggested yesterday and I made these for lunch. Nothing was left!

First, a few delicious cherry tomatoes were roughly chopped, some fresh basil added, some garlic, salt and olive oil, all combined and set aside. Aubergines sliced about 2cm thick, scored, seasoned with salt and a little drizzle of olive oil, into the oven for about 10 minutes, 200 degrees, till slightly coloured. Then the tomato salad on neatly on top, some breadcrumbs mixed with parmigiano and a tiny bit of mozzarella, back to the oven for 15-20 minutes. Very Italian, very delicious.

🙂

Tiramisu al pistachio.

Oh yes. I first heard of it from Dennis, raised an eyebrow, but who am I to argue, right? I had a 3/4 full jar of pistachio paste, lots of savoyardi biscuits, some unsalted pistachios and made a small portion yesterday, having first consulted Giallo Zafferano.

For starters 2 egg yolks whipped with some sugar and vanilla sugar, but not too much, as pistachio paste is already very sweet. A bit of whipped cream , ready and waiting. To the whipped and fluffy yolks I have added half a container of mascarpone and then the paste, quite a lot, 4 tsps maybe and then added some more to be sure. 🙂 A little of that cream to loosen it up. And then a layer of all this wonderfulness on the bottom of the dish, a layer of savoyardi quickly soaked in coffee, more wonderfulness, biscuits and finished with one more layer. On the top finely chopped unsalted pistachios, but I only added them before serving, so they stayed lovely and crunchy.

Also, I must add that this is the first ever tiramisu I’ve made without booze, as they do here in Italia. Izzie could have some, she did and she approved. As did we! 🙂

Trattoria da Nonna Clara.

I have wanted to eat there for a long time, but somehow we never did. But today, on a beautiful day, with bright blue sky it seemed like an obvious choice and there was a table outside that was available.

Service- excellent. We were offered water on arrival, not a common thing in Italy, even in the middle of summer. Before we came I thought I really fancied some vongole, for science- in a different place than Grumpy’s which in winter simply lost all its appeal. But today there was no vongole, so I settled for a plate of roasted mountain lamb with roast potatoes. House chianti was recommended to go with it, nice not to feel ripped off. Florek went for caccio e pepe, which he liked so much, that he said it might even replace carbonara on the top spot on the list of his favourite pastas. Nonna Clara’s is famous for its fresh pasta, in fact there is a woman in the window making fresh pasta during the service, which stops traffic sometimes!

Papardelle with ragu for Izzie and we were munching. I enjoyed my lamb so much, I nearly forgot about the wine, a first! And finally, finally somebody served me with absolutely perfect roast potatoes, perfect, ever so slightly perfumed with rosemary.

Encouraged by all this we went for a tiramisu to share, by far the lightest one I had so far in Italy. Izzie had pannacotta, which she licked off the plate until there was nothing left. After coffee and 70 euro lighter we went home, fed, happy and excited about next time at Nonna Clara’s. 10 out of 10. Basta cosi. 🙂

Lemon chicken.

Marion’s, for a change. Not from the book, from her food channel.

I made it this evening and divided the crowd slightly. I expected Izzie to be more enthusiastic, as she is a big citrus fan, but I got a look and a comment- “mama, lemon, yessss, but lemon with chicken??”. We both liked it, although I must say that the dish is great immediately off the pan; as it cools, the sauce gets slimy and not so great in texture.

I started with marinating my chicken breast pieces in some soy sauce, shaoxing and an egg white and left it for about 20 minutes while getting on with the rest.

The sauce- chicken stock, sugar- which I adjusted in the pan, soy sauce and lemon juice plus some zest. That juice was to be added towards the end, to keep as much of its freshness as possible.

Nice idea for pieces of crispy chicken; the meat with the marinade went onto the plate with flour, lots of it, well tossed, well coated and then deep fried and dried off on the kitchen towel.

Wok was getting nice and hot, some oil, chopped garlic and ginger, sauce goes in and cooks down for a couple of minutes. Lemon juice and zest, cornflour with water. Once happy with taste – I added more sugar- chicken goes in to be tossed in the sauce nicely. Sesame seeds, spring onions, rice on the side. I think next time less lemon juice, I’d have it a bit more subtle.

Spicy garlic butter spaghetti.

Marion’s, from the book. The recipe which she said blew up her food channel and if one is to make only one recipe from this book, let it be that. So I made it for lunch today. I can’t honestly say that it is as mind blowing as the recent discovery of crispy pancetta drizzled with honey

(oh, yes!), but Florek finished his in minutes and said he would definitely have it again. It’s a bit like olio e aglio, one always has all those ingredients in the cupboard.

First thing done were garlic chips, a delightful addition to any dish, I think! Thinly sliced garlic cloves, mine were big, so I used 2, gently cooked in olive oil until golden brown, then off the heat.

Spaghetti was cooking, while a large chunk of butter went into the pan, when melted 2 further garlic cloves, chopped, a tsp of chili flakes, then 2.1/2 tbsp of soy sauce and oyster sauce went it, nicely combined, off the heat until the pasta was al dente. Once it was, in with it, a couple of minutes until the sauce gently coated the pasta, some pasta water in and a good handful of parmesan. Spring onions on top, those lovely garlic chips and we were sticking our forks in.

I’ve been doing yoga for the last 3 weeks, to get ready for summer, to keep fairly fit and not give up on attempting to have a fairly flat stomach ( congratulations to myself on the choice of words! :-). I’ve done my daily exercise this morning, this plate was fairly calorific, but very, very satisfying. A keeper. 🙂

On the joys of cooking and eating